MAY 3
9:31am
Albany-Rensselaer Station
I was taking Amtrak’s USA Rail Pass around America, and I was waiting at the Albany train station when a magazine called New York By Rail caught my eye and I decided to flip through it. The world’s longest elevated pedestrian bridge is in Poughkeepsie? There are cute shops and bakeries in Hudson? There’s a castle on the Hudson River near Beacon? I had no idea there was so much to do in this state, car free. So I changed my plans for the day and did the things I saw in the magazine.
When I got off the train in Hudson, I was shocked by how clean and beautiful it was. I walked up and down Warren Street, grabbed a pint from Spotty Dog Books & Ale, and marveled that I had never heard of this magical city before reading about it in the magazine.
When I stopped into Poughkeepsie, I decided to wander to my heart’s content. I took the Mid-Hudson Bridge across the river, then did a hike at Franny Reese State Park—drinking from a mountain spring and finding ruins(!)—before finding my way to the Highland Hamlet and walking back across the Walkway Over The Hudson.
I couldn’t believe all I got to experience in just one day by train. Since then, I’ve used this magazine as my guide for three more car-free trips around New York State. I’ve fallen in love with this state and the people who live here and I want to show it off to everyone I can.
SEPTEMBER 3
1:07pm
Moynihan Train Hall, New York City
My mom had never taken the train before, so we met in New York City and boarded at Moynihan Train Hall for an adventure exploring as many cities as we could in four days. Her first moments on the train were everything I’d hoped they’d be. She was absolutely giddy walking between the train cars and said she felt like Hercule Poirot of Agatha Christie fame.
4:34pm
Schenectady Train Station
Our first stop was Schenectady, because my mom’s a history buff and I knew she would freak out over the Stockade District, one of the oldest continuously inhabited neighborhoods in America. We walked up and down every street gawking at the architecture of the old homes, churches and cemeteries, and had dinner at Stella’s and bread pudding muffins for breakfast at Ambition.
SEPTEMBER 4
2:06pm
Empire State Plaza, Albany
The next day we took the bus to Troy to visit Manory’s Diner and see the murals, then took the bus down to Albany, which I had been eager to show my mom. As I suspected, she absolutely loved it. The architectural variety inside the New York State Capitol is unmatched, and wandering its staircases and hallways makes you feel like you’re on a big adventure. We also explored the State Museum, the Albany Institute of History and Art and Washington Park.
FEBRUARY 2
5:06pm
Buffalo Train Station
This winter I met up with my friend Alexxus in Buffalo for a six-cities-insix- days adventure around Western and Central New York by train. It was her first time on the train, too, and she was surprised by how pleasant the journey was. We got into the habit of bringing snacks from local bakeries with us, and once we popped a bottle of champagne as we watched the snowy landscape out the window. We were on our own little Polar Express.
6:02pm
Niagara Falls Train Station
Our first stop was Niagara Falls. Our hotel, The Giacomo, was a short walk from the falls, and we were shocked that it wasn’t very crowded. We had a fantastic prix fixe dinner at Savor, run by the local culinary school. The next day we went to Cave Of The Winds. The frozen formations caused by the waterfalls took our breath away. We also visited the Underground Railroad Heritage Center located at the train station in Niagara Falls and the Aquarium of Niagara.
FEBRUARY 3
12:32pm
Downtown Buffalo
Next we stayed a night in Buffalo. We visited the AKG Museum, which had works by Warhol, Picasso, Monet and Van Gogh, as well as immersive work from Yayoi Kusama. The architecture in Buffalo is something to behold, from big buildings down to small homes in neighborhoods. We walked around Five Points and found colorful homes and local bakeries to be such a delight. And of course, we tried as much regional food as we could: wings, poutine, beef on weck and more.
FEBRUARY 4
1:45pm
Rochester Train Station
The quest for regional food continued as we took the train to Rochester. We were shocked by how good the barbecue was at Dinosaur Bar-b-que, and we got the obligatory garbage plate from Dogtown. We also found delightful fare at Leonore’s on Park Avenue. We visited the George Eastman Museum and peeked at the waterfalls downtown. The next morning, we enjoyed the Strong National Museum Of Play, which we had no trouble having fun in despite being two grown adult women.
FEBRUARY 5
3:22pm
Syracuse Train Station
We then took the train to Syracuse, a cute and cozy city that feels extra magical in winter. We went ice skating downtown, hemmed in by historic buildings, before visiting the Everson Museum of Art and spending the evening in Armory Square. In the morning, we stopped into the Museum of Science and Technology and The Sound Garden before heading for the train station. Right near the station was Destiny USA, one of the largest malls in America.
FEBRUARY 6
12:45pm
Utica Train Station
Next, we took the train to Utica, a small city that’s cozy and unique in its own way. We had half-moon cookies at Hemstrought’s and chicken riggies at Ancora, then got root beer on draft at the 1888 Biergarten And Tavern. Our bed and breakfast, The Rosemont Inn, was in a historic building offering loose leaf tea whenever we wanted it and a delicious breakfast in the morning. We finished our trip with a ride on the Adirondack Railroad before taking Amtrak back to New York City to go our separate ways. I will never forget the cities we visited together or the memories we made on this trip.
FEBRUARY 18
8:35am
Poughkeepsie Train Station
I had one last winter adventure meeting up with Jordan and Lana, the New York By Rail interns. We met at the Poughkeepsie train station, then took the train to Hudson to get baked goods from Mel’s and a hot drink from Moto, a coffee shop and motorcycle shop, before peeking our heads into whatever buildings interested us. I bought Bananagrams from a thrift store and we played that on our ride down to Rhinecliff, which is a short drive to Rhinebeck, a celebrity favorite and historic gem. We had lunch at the Beekman Arms Inn, where George Washington has stayed, before wandering over to Samuel’s Sweet Shop, co-owned by Hollywood actor Paul Rudd. We bought a Rice Krispie treat that had Paul Rudd’s face on it!
FEBRUARY 19
10am
Hyde Park
The next day, I met with Tom Martinelli, the founder and publisher of New York By Rail, at the Culinary Institute Of America in Hyde Park, a short drive from Poughkeepsie. I took the public tour and then we had lunch at The Egg, which is not your everyday school cafeteria. We had gourmet meals for about $10 a person. Next, we went to Dassai Blue, a sake brewery that offers self-guided tours through their process of turning rice into high-quality sake, which I now know is best served cold and in a wine glass. We also drove to the nearby Home Of Franklin D. Roosevelt and the Vanderbilt Mansion.
I truly didn’t know all there is to see and do in Poughkeepsie or across New York State. I’m enamored with the natural beauty, good food, stunning architecture and kind people, and I can’t wait to go back.
To see Hope Henchey’s car-free New York State Amtrak adventures, follow @newyorkbyrail on Instagram.
